We rode the slow boat down the Mekong on Sunday and Monday. This trip from Northern Laos to Central via a boat that sits 70 people (technically) and 180 ish (in reality) takes two full days with an overnight in Pakben. We were told that the boat was supposed to leave at nine AM on Sunday so we arrived at the dock at eight to get our seats. Our tickets said we had seats four and five which were in a perfect location according to the guy that sold them to us. He assured us we'd be happy with our purchase. We were, but that's because the boat actually left at 12:30. The seats didn't have numbers but we were there early enough to choose whatever seats we wanted. Nathan kept referring to them as seats four and five even though we were about nine rows back. After the boat was nearly finished loading a man stood up at the front and explained in broken English that we were waiting on a tour group arriving from the south that had another 80 people in it. When they arrived they started cramming into the boat. There weren't nearly enough seats for all of them so one man asked the captain "When this boat is full where do we go..is there a second boat?" The man laughed heartily and replied, "One boat only." Poor seat-less tourists. Like I always say..If you're not early you're late. Nathan doesn't see eye to eye with me on this.
He loves the Laos mentality. 'Laid back' doesn't do it justice. This is a place where timing is NOT everything. If it happens, it happens and most plans are irrelevant. He got such a kick out of one British woman's rant about Houy Xai being a black hole. She'd been trying to get out of this particular town on a bus for three days but every time she showed up to catch it, something came up and it wasn't leaving until the next day. I didn't necessarily think her story funny. I could empathize with her frustration and partially believed her accusations that the locals had her trapped. Nathan's delight at her grumbling was curious. He admitted that the pace of things, the Laotian general lack of concern for deadlines and schedules simultaneously validates his own sense of timing and irks more anal retentive Western minded people like me (which tickles him).
The boat ride ends for most in Luang Prabang. It's supposed to be the most romantic city in South East Asia. I had my doubts as I listened to an elderly couple exchanging curses at one another while trying to split a cashew chicken dish this afternoon (she wanted all of the cashews!). However, even grumpy octogenarians can't kill the charm of this place. French influenced architecture, street markets, music, it sits on a peninsula jutting out into the Mekong. I fell in love the instant I spotted Oreo cookie-coconut milk shakes.
We've decided to call Luang Prabang home for a few days. I need time to investigate the elusive hairless beach cow. Strangest thing. Bright pink from over-exposure and dotting the banks of the Mekong. I feel like Darwin in the Galapagos-taking notes, making observations. I'm not certain but I think they eat sand.
A few Quotes from the last few weeks:
"Oh wow, look at that infant cutting a melon with a butcher knife..totally unsupervised" - Nathan
"I'll do you one better..check out THAT infant...running with a shard of glass in each hand." -Jenny
"Meeeeoooww" - creature
"Is that a cat..or a child?" - Nathan
"Both. That is a toddler meowing like a cat on all fours, crawling in the middle of the street."
"Do you have a toilet?" - Jenny
"......?......" - Boy behind a gas station counter
"Oh Cripes..Am I really going to have to mime this?"
".......??........." - Boy
This was an emergency situation as far as I was concerned..so I gave it my all. I grimaced, clenched my knees together tightly and did the most emphatic pee dance I have ever done. The boy turned bright red and pointed to the back. Mission accomplished.
"Do you wake up in the morning having no idea where in the world you are? I do. Every morning."
-Nathan
We are still trying to decide whether to float down the Mekong on tubes or make our way on an 18 hour overnight bus to Vietnam. I'm having a hard time getting excited about 18 hours on a crowded bus, but it has to be done.
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